If news reports are correct, (one never knows these days), Cuba is in a tight spot, her economy battered by sanctions and an ongoing exodus of her people.
In 2001, I travelled to Santiago, Cuba, documenting the experiences of a group of dancers and musicians from the US. In those days. our government did not permit “ordinary tourists” to visit Cuba.
Whenever I had the chance, I’d head over to the Casa de la Trova, Santiago’s version of the Buena Vista Social Club, with a hometown feeling - a real cafe, not a bar. There was a courtyard where musicians and audience could mingle. A few coins would get you admittance to small auditorium with a stage, where music was performed throughout the day - in the afternoon mostly folk music, in the evening, full bands playing son, salsa, rhumba. The level of musicianship was extremely high and they were performing for pennies. Any overt payment to Cuban nationals could invoke stiff fines from the US. I’d heard of a documentary crew indicted by our government for making donations to the baseball teams they were filming.
Music, along with cigars and rum, is one of Cuba’s most potent exports. The Cuban people, buoyed by a vibrant culture, will survive, one way or another. They are, among other things, remarkably resourceful. The blockades and trade restrictions have turned Cuba by default into a country of recyclers. Car accidents are seen as an on opportunity to collect spare parts. Every street corner had someone selling butane to fill cigarette lighters. The Cuban spirit, one hopes, remains undaunted.
In the coming weeks, a number of programs on Cuba’s extraordinary music traditions, at the Casa de la Trova and elsewhere.
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